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Reprint from Sarasota Herald-Tribune (FL)
A walk on the BEACH
May 25, 2005
Section: FLORIDA WEST
Page: E1
Kara Chalmers, Correspondent

The first time I dined in Bradenton Beach, I was with a friend who was visiting from Boston in the winter. We wanted a real Florida experience -- frozen drinks, fresh seafood appetizers, a view of the sunset and a Jimmy Buffett soundtrack.

The Beach House, a huge, Gulf-front restaurant with seats in the sand and its own beach-volleyball court, fit the bill nicely. It's near what seems to be the heart of Bradenton Beach -- the rotary intersection of Gulf Drive, which runs along the coast, and Bridge Street, which runs from the beach to the historic Bridge Street Pier over the Intracoastal Waterway.

It's a fun and lively place, offering all kinds of seafood, steak and chicken dishes, priced in the $15 to $20 range. Sandwiches, salads and appetizers (we had fried calamari) round out the menu.

But there are more than a dozen eateries here, including ice cream parlors and coffeehouses as well as fine-dining establishments. And one of the best things about eating in Bradenton Beach is its diverse selection. Almost all eateries are within an easy walk of the others, so you can check out all the menus before making your decision.

Limited space prevents a detailed description of every eatery. I've selected a few that I feel show the variety of the city's dining establishments. Check out the accompanying map for a more complete list.

Service with a smile: Gulf Drive Cafe
This casual restaurant, serving lunch, dinner and breakfast all day, offers outside seating on a bamboo-covered deck -- practically on the sand -- and Gulf views. Tiki torches in the sand add to the beachy atmosphere. I've heard this is one of the city's best breakfast spots, but I opted for lunch. I had the Always Boston Clam Chowder, which did taste like Boston to me, a native. I dined on an open-face tuna salad and provolone cheese sandwich, but the cafe offered much more than just seafood, including that day's specials of corned beef and cabbage and pork shish kebab. The servers are very friendly here; I even saw one of them lend a sweater to a patron who was chilled on that windy day.

Caribbean fare and flair: Banana Cabana
Owner Michael Rappaport lived all over the Caribbean and brought back the authentic recipes that make his restaurant unique. One signature item is the Mango Macadamia Encrusted Grouper. Others include paella with a Caribbean twist, curries, ribs, and conch fritters and chowder. Hand-painted art (fish, turtles, mermaids), made in the Bahamas from steel drums, hang all over the walls. The stuffed monkeys are gifts from customers and are not for sale. The restaurant serves beer and wine only, and there's live tropical-style entertainment on weekend nights.

Feel like you're in Europe: The Island Creperie
At this intimate, romantic bistro, the crepes and other dishes are prepared by cooks speaking French, so you know it's the real thing. The decor features vintage art of France and wine bottles, including a row labeled "reserve of Chef Oliver." The House Buck' is a buckwheat crepe filled with egg, cheese and ham, and even the side salad of roma tomatoes, lettuce and chives with house dressing was wonderful. My mother, also visiting from Boston in the winter (notice a trend here?) had the Country Buck', a crepe with prosciutto, blue cheese, walnuts and sour cream -- four tastes that went great together. There are nearly two dozen dessert crepes, from Nutella to pears flambeed with cognac. French wines and specialties, including beef bourguignon and chicken a la Normande, make this a great dinner spot (dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday).

Treats to go: Vinjavagar
The "vin" is for wine, the "java" for coffee and the "gar" is for cigars (mainly from the Dominican Republic). Come here for your caffeine fix, as coffee is for sale by the pound and by the cup, in flavors like Southern Pecan and Irish Cream (special for St. Patrick's Day). Sip your espresso, latte, cafe mocha or fruit tea smoothie at one of the small tables outside on Bridge Street. Saleswoman Judy Lewis said that many vacationers staying at Bridge Walk, the resort in the same building, buy a bottle of wine to bring back to their rooms after the beach, for a pre-dinner treat. There are also gifts of candy, coasters, wine glasses, chowders and bisques by the can and jarred olives.

Tip: Go on a Tuesday morning, when a Bradenton baker drops off huge, homemade, fresh-from-the-oven cinnamon rolls, smothered with butter-cream frosting. Plan to share with a friend or two.

Satisfy your sweet tooth: Joe's Eats & Sweets
When I mentioned that we were Boston natives, JoAnne Spallino made us try the Boston Scotch Sundae, and we were glad she did. It's made with butterscotch sauce, chopped pecans, whipped cream, a cherry and coffee ice cream -- "because Bostonians like coffee ice cream," she explained. Owner Joe Spallino, JoAnne's husband, makes everything from scratch, on the premises, from the sauces to the 45 flavors of ice cream. Except for the fudge -- that's JoAnne's specialty. We ate outside, on the second-floor deck. Inside there are video games and lots more seating.

Flash of green ritual: Sun House
I haven't eaten here yet, I'm sad to say, but when I heard about the Sun House's nightly ritual, I had to include it. As the sun sets, a patron is chosen to bang a gong while everyone, patrons and staff, sings "You are my Sunshine." Then, everyone of age is given a free green shot called the Green Flash Shooter. The green flash is a phenomenon that's said to occur the instant the sun sets. All I could find out about the secret recipe is that it's not complicated and it's sweet. The Gulf-view restaurant's specialty is Floribbean food, described as a fusion of native Florida and Caribbean ingredients. While the atmosphere is rather casual, the food is not, and is prepared beautifully. The signature dish is the Grassy Key Grouper, pan-seared over sauteed spinach with shrimp, garlic-dill mashed potatoes and asparagus, topped with a Key lime beurre blanc. The outdoor deck on the third floor offers perhaps the best view in town.

Relax and enjoy: Bridge Tender Inn
Situated next to the Intracoastal Waterway, with its own docks for boating patrons, the casual Bridge Tender Inn provided a truly relaxing and enjoyable evening for my fiance and me one night last spring. Nothing's changed since. There's still a view of sailboats, live Jimmy Buffett-style music at night and awesome food, including steak, pastas and seafood. The number-one seller is the grouper, which you can have broiled, fried, sauteed, chargrilled or blackened.

1. Sharkey's Steak and Grill
2519 Gulf Drive N.
779-9151

2. Gulf Drive Cafe
900 Gulf Drive N.
778-1919

3. Gulfside Grill
101 7th St. N.
779-0313

4. The Beach House
200 Gulf Drive N.
779-2222

5. Oma Pizza and Italian Restaurant
201 Gulf Drive N.
778-0771
(offers takeout and delivery)

6. S S Scoops A big Olaf Creamery
103 Gulf Drive N.
779-2244
7. Banana Cabana Caribbean Seafood & Grill
103 Gulf Drive N.
779-1930

8. The Sun House
111 Gulf Drive N.
782-1122

9. Maestro Little Italy
101 Bridge St.
778-6455
(offers takeout)

10. Vinjavagar at BridgeWalk
104 Bridge St.
782-1120
11. The Island Creperie
127 Bridge St.
778-1011

12. Bridge Tender Inn
135 Bridge St.
778-4849

13. Joe's Eats & Sweets
219 Gulf Drive S.
778-007